Cinque Terra

Cinque Terra

Well, well, well... where to begin? So after our train issues coming from Rome to Spezia, the train from Spezzia Central to Monterosso was surprisingly uneventful. Other than the usual drama of arguing over which platform we are supposed to be on to take the proper train, the ride went smoothly and quickly. Upon exiting the train station in the small seaside town, any stresses and anxieties we may have been carrying quickly melted away with the ocean breeze and the feel of a mythical Costa-del-sol type of atmosphere. If there is one perfect spot I have come across in all of my travels, even moreso than San Diego, it is Monterosso.

Perfect weather, beautiful and kind people and excellent hospitality highlight this seaside town with volcanic rock and shale beaches of perfectly blue waters; if Eden still existed, it would be in Monterosso.

Our first day in paradise was as expected; lounging in the sun and then a wonderful Italian dinner at Tretoria del Oscar. As we were sitting at dinner, we had a surprise visitor, Tim Corley from Oracle Direct in Minneapolis walked up to Jacqui as we were getting our Tuna Carpaccio, tapped her on the shoulder and surprised the heck out of her! After a few minutes of conversation, we resumed our meal, eating calamari and a home-made ravioli with our wine. We then proceeded to upload a text version of Rome Part I from the cybercafe down the street, went for a quick walk and then managed to socialize over impromptu glasses of wine with a young couple from Indian Rocks Beach. This is noteworthy because IRB is a fairly small city where Jacqui has spent time many winters for the last 30 years! If you happen to see Jay and Jill at Crabby Bill's, send a pint their way and say the Patels send their best. A few glasses later, we turned in for the night, preparing for our big day in the sun.

The following morning, I rose at 6am (was kind of a theme this vacation, I don't think Jacqui has been up before me yet), and did some brief exploring before breakfast was served at 7. Breakfast in itself was an indulgence, a far cry from our Spartan accomodations in Rome; we had a bed and breakfast with luxury to match the scenery... A lofted suite with air conditioning and a view of a terraced garden was what we were waking to every morning. Not going to lie, it was really pretty impressive, even compared to American Luxury Hotels such as the W, The Four Seasons, the Grand Hotel, The Phister or even The Drake.

The couple that ran the B&B had been operating hotels in the Cinque Terra for several years, but consolidated operations and opened Locande il Maestrale in 2001. Done in a modern style with modern amenities, the B&B was accented with fine art on the ceilings, marble tile and fine wooden cabinetry and carpentry to preserve the feel of the old country while providing a modern, luxury hotel experience. Returning to the matter of breakfast, my plate was filled with fresh fruit, proscuitto, pastry and one medium-boiled egg... The first true 'gourmet' breakfast Jacqui and I had experienced since coming to Italy. Sitting on the hotel's elevated outdoor porch was a fantastic way to start the day, taking tea in the sunshine, while reading the Economist, Wall Street Journal or London papers.

Fantastico!

On day two we decided to spend some time on the beach before heading out for a nature hike. I purchased an original painting while we waited... Let me tell you, trying to conduct a business transaction when the other guy doesn't speak a word of English and you are trying to tell him you need the art packed so you can get on a plane can be quite challenging! Eventually we got business done; I purchased a small picture of a Monterossoan house by the seaside and mystery piece for my wife - I will put a picture up of it when I get back home for all to see.

So... our nature hike. It was quite beautiful, and also really challenging. We took the train from Monterosso to Corgnelia, and set out to conquer the paths that until the 20th century were the only terrestrian method to travel from town to town. The 'trail' was done in the style of a roman road, with stones laid down to mark the path and direction you should be heading. As I mentioned earlier, until the 20th century, these trails were the primary method of transport between towns. Merchants would trek with their goods strapped to their back, traversing 1 1/2' wide paths with stunning views, but precipitous drop offs on one side of the path, and sheer rock face on the other for a good portion of the trail. Semi-challenging with Nikes on, outright treacherous with 75lbs of olives strapped to your back!

The trail was long and windng, but an enjoyable hike. As we rounded what we thought was the last stretch, I decided that I hadn't had enouh exercise yet, so I decided to break into a run... silly me. It turned out the stretch that I though was a simple rise and a 100 meter run was an optical illusion, the path would continue to look like it was 25 meters from the hillcrest for a bit longer ... So I decided to keep running... 500 meters later and 50 or so meters higher, I finally reached the top! As my lungs burned and my legs were screaming for oxygen, I stopped and wiped the sweat from my brow to look at the other side, and the view was worth every step. In front of me was a small cafe roughly 50' below, carved into the cliffside. As I looked back towards the ocean from the direction whence we came, I was in awe of the beauty and power of nature... The ocean, perfectly blue, pounded surf against black rock beaches, as small tidepools swirled in coves surrounded by lush green vegetation... simply amazing.

Turning to face the other direction, the view of the town was equally impressive, cut into the hillside, with winding staircases, terracotta roofs and alabaster colored buildings. Bellissimo... C'est tout. Bellisimmo.

After our hike, we took the train back to Monterosso; as much of a wonderful experience as the trek was, I am not sure either of us would have been up for an even more challenging hike from Vernazza. Following a short, passionate debate on what to do for dinner, I made an executive decision to eat at L'anchora de Ristorante Tortuga, one of the top rated Oceanside restaurants in Italy. Unfortunately, when we arrived, we were told by a rather surly kid that outdoor seating was strictly reserved for reservations. As my wife grew angry with me for dragging her out to the point without a guarantee of a table, I asked her to be patient as I aksed for a table inside. The menu was among the best available in Monterosso, and I wasn't about to squander the opportunity to eat here! Fortune smiled upon us that night, as there was a table inside available. Once seated, another surprise was waiting for us, as Jacqui's coworker Tim had a table right next to ours. After a few moments of conversation, it was decided that we should all dine together - and dine we did, enjoying several bottles of wine to accompany our wonderful meal. Many thanks to Bob and Lisa, the parents of Tim's wife Melissa, for facilitating the evening!

After finishing our meal and heading our separate ways, we had another unplanned rodndez-vous with Tim and Melissa at a local watering hole called, of all things, Bar Americana. Nothing quite like drinking beer and listening to early 90's grunge rock like Soundgarden. Nirvana and Pearl Jam while you're in one of the most beautiful parts of a foreign country to drub any homesickness you may have out of your system.

Day Three was our last in our slice of Italian paradise. Needless to say, I didn't really want to go, but Jacqui assured me we had more interesting things coming up in our trip, like Florence and all the museums there. Reluctantly, after having a bit of lunch, we waved Aribadercci to sun, sand and surf, boarding the train back to La Spezzia station and on to Florence, or as the locals say, Firenze.